corner & I-beam bracing

This the second blog in a series about how to recognize a quality cabinet when you see one.  In the last cabinet blog, I discussed some common materials used to make cabinets and some of the pros and cons of each.  Today I’m reviewing some of the methods used to make a cabinet so you can take a look inside a cabinet box and pull open the drawers and know what you’re looking at.  Any cabinet is just a box – but what makes a good cabinet box is how reinforced and rigid it is.  Material used to make a cabinet is usually particle board, MDF, or plywood.  Particle board is the least expensive and, in my opinion, an inferior product for a cabinet.  Particle board does not hold up to water and the first leak will ruin the board.  The thickness of the panels is also important.  The thicker the material, the more rigid the box will be.  Common thicknesses are 1/2″ or 3/4″.  I prefer the 3/4″ stock for a strong cabinet.  Common bracing techniques to make a cabinet strong and rigid include corner braces and I-beam braces made out of particle board, plywood, MDF, solid wood, or plastic.  Corner braces help to make the cabinet box square too.  I-beam braces are wood pieces that run from the front of the box to the rear on the inside of the side panels or along the back from side to side.  The I- beam brace usually fits in a dado slot in the side panel.  The picture of this white cabinet shows a well braced cabinet with both solid wood corner braces and I-beam braces on each side.                            

Cabinet Joinery:                            

Cabinet joinery has to do with all the ways the cabinet parts can be joined together.  Common joint techniques include a mortise & tenon, dado, rabbet, doweled, dovetail, and a butt joint.  Mechanical fasteners such as staples, nails, screws as well as glues are also used in some cases.  Some are stronger than others.  The strongest joints are ones where the two pieces are intertwined together – such as the dovetail joint and the mortise & tenon joint.  Once they are made, you can’t really see a mortise & tenon joint, so look for a dovetail joint for a quality joint.  Cabinets that have butt joints and are stapled, glued, or nailed are not as strong and should not cost as much as a dovetail joint cabinet.                      

See illustrations below:                          

Face Frame & Frameless Cabinets:                

There are two types of cabinet front frame – frameless and face frames.  Face frames are an older style of constructing a cabinet and typically have a door or drawer that does not cover the entire face of the cabinet.  A disadvantage of a face frame cabinet is that the interior access to the cabinet is more restricted and drawers must be built smaller to fit in face frame openings.  For this reason, frameless cabinets with concealed hinges are more popular and usually more expensive.  See the two types below plus a standard and full overlay door:              

Door & Drawer Construction & Styles:              

On higher quality drawers more of the drawer parts tend to be made of solid wood to stand up the abuse from more frequent opening and closing.  Some cabinet manufacturers offer options for painted metal drawers on their wood cabinet lines. Drawer fronts, the part of the drawer that you see, tend to be made from solid wood or MDF that’s either painted or covered with thermofoil.  The way a drawer is built plays a large role in its durability and longevity. The drawer box is made up of two side panels, front and back panels and the bottom.  Most cabinet drawers have a separate front piece that’s attached to the front drawer-box panel although on some drawers the drawer front and front panel are the same piece.              

There are two basic types of cabinet door construction – framed and slab. Framed doors are made up of an outer frame that is built around a panel in the center of the door. The edges of the panel fit into slots milled into the inside edges of the frame and are allowed to “float” within the frame to allow for normal expansion and contraction of the wood. Raised panel doors are a common variety of the frame door style.              

Slab doors don’t have the separate parts like a framed door and are usually one-piece construction or the combination of several solid pieces of wood glued and joined together to form a solid slab.  This type of door is very popular for a contemporary type of design.  One downside to a slab wood door is the risk of cracking as the wood pieces expand and contract over time.  That is why many cabinet manufacturers will not produce a painted, wood, slab door.  The paint has no give and take to it and when the wood expands and contracts the paint finish cracks.  A stained slab door is more practical.  If you want a painted slab door, make sure it is built out of MDF since MDF does not expand and contract like wood does.  MDF also is very smooth and takes paint very well.             

  Inset doors have a really clean, sophisticated look, but they are typically more expensive and you have to be OK with exposed hinges since concealed hinges won’t work on an inset door.  There are many different variations to cabinet door styles.  Commonly more detailed profiles cost more and look more traditional in style.           

Hopefully this blog article will help you to differentiate a quality cabinet from a budget cabinet when you are in a cabinet showroom.  Remember to look at the box material and evaluate the thickness, look for corner and I-beam bracing,  look for dovetail joints, avoid particle board if your budget can handle it, and go frameless if you can for better access.  Many of my clients are surprised by the number of decisions and choices there are when selecting cabinetry.  Knowing the construction methods and levels of quality makes these decisions a lot easier.  Of course, our clients have a Summit Design Remodeling Design Consultant with them so that makes choosing a cabinet easier too.              

The third and last cabinet blog in our series will review cabinet finishes and the wide variety of accessories you can add to your new cabinets.  In the meantime, please check out our other blog articles and project photos on www.SummitDesignRemodeling.com.             

I was in a local kitchen and bath showroom a while back and remember a man looking at some cabinets on display and commenting on how high quality they were.  I happened to know from pricing the various lines in that showroom many times, that the cabinets he was referring to had a nice door profile and chocolate glaze finish that made them look attractive, but in fact they were the cheapest cabinets in the place.  I didn’t correct him, but it got me thinking that many people may have a hard time distinguishing a high-end quality cabinet from an entry level budget cabinet.  So I’ve decided I’m going to write a few blog posts in a series about things to consider when evaluating cabinetry for your home remodel.  There are so many facets to a cabinet selection – from materials, box construction methods, door styles, hardware, finish styles, and accessories that it would be just too much for one blog article.    So today I’m going to start with materials commonly used to make cabinets and a comparison of each:          

Solid Hard Wood – A whole lot could be written on wood alone, but some typical cabinet woods include: cherry, maple, pine, oak, hickory, walnut, and mahogany.  These woods can vary greatly in their natural color and wood grain patterns.  Maple is probably the most consistent wood with very little grain pattern and with fewer knots than pine.  Pine is also a lighter wood, but typically has more knots and will give a more rustic look.  Hickory and mahogany are darker woods and will show a high degree of variation even after being stained.  Cherry is a beautiful wood for cabinets and can give a more furniture quality finish, but cherry also has high shade variation and typically darkens somewhat as it ages and you have to be accepting of that if you choose cherry.  Cherry is also commonly more expensive than maple.  Oak cabinets used to be more popular, but have fallen out of favor with most of my clients who don’t want a “builder grade” look and don’t like the graininess of oak.          

Whatever your wood preference, know that a cabinet made out of SOLID wood is going to typically be higher priced and deemed higher quality than a veneered cabinet or a cabinet made of MDF or particle board.  All natural wood materials, however, are prone to expansion and contraction, cracking and warping due to changes in temperature and moisture content.          

Plywood  – Another commonly used material for cabinet construction is plywood.  Plywood as the picture shows has layers of wood that are sandwiched and bonded together under high pressure.  The layers are positioned so the wood grains go in opposite directions to give it more strength.  In order to make a cabinet using plywood, they have to finish the ends with very thin strips of wood veneer (pictured below).           

wood veneer

to hide the layers and make it look like a solid piece of wood.  Because the veneer strips have to be glued to the edges of the boards, they can become chipped or come loose over time and are deemed a lesser quality material than solid wood.  The price point for a veneered cabinet should be less than a solid wood cabinet.          

Medium Density Fiberboard ( more commonly called MDF) – MDF is made by breaking wood particles down into individual fibers then glueing and pressing them together under high pressure to form boards.  Because the particles are much smaller, MDF is denser than particle board and has a smooth finish.  MDF is a good choice for painted cabinets because the smoothness allows it to take paint very well.  Also because it is not a solid piece of wood it is not prone to warping, cracking, and splitting like wood boards.  I especially like MDF for painted slab cabinet doors since it won’t split or crack like regular wood.          

Particle Board

Particle Board & Melamine – Particle board is made by glueing tiny pieces of wood, sawdust and sawmill shavings together under high pressure.  Particle board is the weakest of any of the materials and is very prone to water damage.  It is also the least expensive type of cabinet material.  It can only be used for paint grade cabinets since you don’t have a wood grain.  Melamine is a particle board that has a plastic coating applied to it.  Melamine is acceptable for closet shelving since it has a smooth finish that won’t snag clothes.  It’s also easy to clean and typically is not at risk for water damage in a closet application.  Particle board and melamine cabinets are lower quality and should be significantly less expensive.         

Thermofoil - Thermofoil is a material mostly used for cabinet doors.  It is a MDF board with a vinyl coating over it.  In years past it was typically very limited in color – white or off white.  Now thermofoil has advanced to mimic wood cabinets and comes in a wider variety of styles.   The advantages of this material are durability and cleanability.   The vinyl coating is easily wiped down with a household cleaner.   The disadvantage is that they can melt if exposed to any high heat.  They can also be hard to find an exact match if you have to replace one and don’t know that brand.  The price point of thermofoil should be less than solid wood since the MDF core is less expensive.         

Stainless Steel

Stainless Steel - Stainless steel is another cabinet material for those who want a more commercial, contemporary kitchen look and have a generous cabinet allowance in their budget.  Stainless steel is obviously very durable, heat resistant, easy to clean, and they will last a lifetime.  The only real negatives are the high price and the somewhat sterile look that it gives unless the stainless is mixed with a wide variety of other materials.  For some, visible fingerprints on stainless steel can be a negative too.        

Bamboo – Bamboo is a real up and comer as far as building materials go.  It is a green product and creates a very clean, contemporary look.  The major negative right now is the price.  You would think it would be less expensive since bamboo plants grow at an amazing rate and it is one of the most plentiful types of wood available.  Generally green products are more expensive right now and I guess bamboo is no exception.  The other disadvantage is that the variety of cabinet styles are more limited to the flat slab door style.  Sometimes the cabinets may come in a shaker style door, but you have to look harder to find it that way.  If you like the contemporary look, bamboo should be a consideration.       

So this is a review of the most common types of cabinet materials.  In my next blog article, I will discuss cabinet construction techniques.  Until then……….    

Please also visit our website at: SummitDesignRemodeling.com     

Your remodeling project is coming to an end and it is time to add the finishing touches.  After much deliberation, you have found the perfect paint color.  But wait!  Before you or your painter can apply that beautiful color, you have to think about the finish.  Whether you prefer Benjamin Moore, Duron, Behr, Valspar or any other brand, there are typically FIVE different finishes to choose from.  Which one is right for your room?  Read on to find out!

Matte/Flat

This finish is great for hiding drywall imperfections.  It does not reflect light, which means small wall dings are not as noticeable.  A matte finish is great for living rooms, bedrooms and dining rooms where moisture is not present.  It has a more formal look to it.  In the past, matte paint was rarely used in bathrooms, however paint manufacturers are beginning to create more durable and moisture resistant matte finishes.  It is also commonly used on the ceiling.  The other good thing about matte paints is that they usually touch up pretty well and don’t require one to repaint an entire wall when only a few small spots need an additional coat.  The downside of matte is that it is typically not as washable as the other finishes.

Eggshell

The eggshell finish looks like the texture of an egg.  It has a slight sheen but for the most part looks fairly matte.  This finish seems to be the most popular because of its look and durability.  Eggshell is fine for high traffic rooms, like family rooms and kitchens, because it can take a light cleaning when needed.  Eggshell can be hard to touch up, however.

 Satin

The satin finish can be used on walls or doors and trim.  It has a smooth finish with a light gloss.  Like the eggshell finish, satin can take a light cleaning and is ideal for kitchens and children’s play areas. 

Semi-gloss

This finish is most commonly used in bathrooms and on trim, doors, moldings, etc.  It is very easy to clean.  Semi-gloss is a mix between the satin and gloss finish.  It has a nice smooth look with not much texture.

 Gloss

High-gloss paint is not used too often on walls.  When used on trim and doors, it can add a nice contrast to a matte, eggshell or satin wall.  Gloss is a great choice to show off architectural moldings and details such as crown molding, firelace surrounds, chair rails, base trim, columns, or any other decorative trim details in your room.  The glossy paint is reflective and draws attention to drywall imperfections, so be careful!  Meticulous trim and wall prep is an absolute with this finish.  Any really good painter knows that filling in nail holes or any imperfections and sanding to smooth finish is a must for any paint job to look great.  This is even more important with gloss paint.  High gloss paint is also a nice look for a sleek, contemporary room. 

Be sure to ask for a sample of the finish because some brands can vary slightly.  Now that you have your color and finish selected, have fun painting!!