Subtle lighting beautifully accentuates this multi-tier deck.

As a general rule of thumb, subtle lighting is the way to go when you want to illuminate your deck or patio.  It is recommended that lights be placed below eye-level and directed downward.  Not only does it play up to the drama and beauty of your deck or patio, but it is actually safer for you, your family and guests. Harsh lighting may pose a safety hazard because it makes it more difficult to discern stair height.  While on the topic of stairs, it should be noted that due to recent code changes in Fairfax County, VA and Montgomery County, MD any new staircases on decks must have stair lighting for safety reasons.

Here is an example of a 12 volt half-moon halogen deck light by Kichler Lighting.

The availability of solar, halogen, and LED lighting in today’s marketplace offers a wide array of options for decks and patios.  Solar lights are the least expensive and have no energy costs, but their life expectancy and brightness are not the greatest.  They may be the best choice, though, if there is no power source available.   Low-voltage halogen lights are a very good choice for outdoor lighting.  They can generally be installed affordably and use substantially less energy than standard line voltage.  Halogen bulbs last a very long time, to the tune of about 5,000 hours, and their brightness is perfectly suitable to outdoor environments.  LEDs are the newest type of lighting and are an excellent choice for decks and patios.  The bulbs are projected to last over a decade with normal use and energy costs are about a fourth of the cost of other options.  The initial investment for LEDs, however, is the most expensive.

This sleek LED post cap light by Trex integrates discreetly into the cap to provide a warm downward glow.

If you want to learn more about the different lighting options and ways to enhance your outdoor living space, set up a no-obligation consultation with Terrel White by calling 703-537-0930.  Terrel is Summit Design Remodeling’s deck and outdoor structure expert.  View our portfolio of decks and patios at http://www.summitdesignremodeling.com/gallery_decks.php.

Multi-Tier Deck

No longer are decks and patios just a place for the backyard grill (although a nice barbecue grill is still a popular feature). These days, decks are often one component of a multi-level and multi featured outdoor living space that can include decks, patios, covered porches, screened porches, pergolas, outdoor kitchens, hot tubs, firepits, pools, and much more. Having an experienced designer is really important when designing your deck or outdoor living space. Some things to consider is how you intend to use the space, how many people may be in the space at one time, what direction your backyard faces, how much of a tree canopy you have in your backyard, and, of course, your budget.

Deck with Patio

Terrel White, one of Summit’s designers takes a comprehensive approach to designing your space. One thing that he puts emphasis on is the decking material and how it will stand up to the elements and perform over time. All of our clients say they want a low maintenance deck, but not all materials are created equal. Looking at your property and considering what the deck material will be exposed to is part of his analysis. Types of decking materials include various types of wood, composite deck materials, and PVC decking. In the wood category you can use the common pressure treated pine or other hardwoods such as cedar, mahogany, teak, or the exotic Ipe. Ipe is also known as Brazilian walnut or Brazilian ironwood. Of the composite materials you can have decking that is a mix of wood and plastic fibers, capped composite decking, and solid PVC decking. Each of these materials has pros and cons and a different price tag. In the coming months we will be focusing our blog on decks and outdoor living including detailed information on the various deck materials and how to choose one from another.

Deck with Composite Materials

We will also focus on deck lighting, outdoor kitchens, and how to extend your outdoor living season. In the interim, click here to view Summit Design Remodeling’s gallery of beautiful deck, patio, and porch projects. Hopefully, you will find some inspiration. To learn about deck safety also check out the NADRA (North American Deck & Railing Association) Deck Safety Consumer Checklist.

The Background

As many consumers already know, lead was added to paint for a number of years – up until 1978, when it was officially banned from residential construction. However, before then lead paint was used in more than 38 million homes, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

Since April 2010, remodeling contractors must be lead-paint certified and follow specific guidelines to prevent lead contamination. Such projects include any repair, renovation and/or painting project that disturbs lead-based paint in homes, childcare facilities and schools built before 1978. The list of contractors that this affects is extensive. Besides remodelers and carpenters, other trades include plumbers, heating and air conditioning contractors, painters and window installers, just to name a few.

If you are a homeowner of a home built prior to 1978, it is important that you select a remodeler who is trained and certified in lead-safe practices. Sure, if lead is detected in your home, it is more expensive to work with a certified remodeler, but don’t cut corners by working with a contractor that doesn’t have the proper training and certification.

Lead Paint Dangers

The remodeling process disturbs the lead paint – leaving behind dust from removing old components, which can be breathed in, and paint splinters and chips that a small child or pet could ingest. In young children, lead poisoning can cause learning disabilities, loss of IQ points, memory problems, lack of concentration, impaired fine motor skills and behavior problems. In adults, lead poisoning can lead to high blood pressure and damage to the brains, kidneys, stomach and nervous system. Pregnant women run the risk of passing the poison on to their unborn child.

What Are Lead-Safe Work Practices?

The EPA offers a free brochure on its website called “Renovate Right” that provides guidance to homeowners and contractors about the safe removal of lead paint. Any contractor should follow specific work practices, including these three simple procedures:

1. Contain the work area. The first step to creating a lead-safe work area is to contain the area that is being disturbed. This involves sealing off the area by using heavy-duty plastic and tape – everything from doors to vents to the floor and furniture will all be covered in plastic. It may look like a bit of a contamination area you see in movies, but it is important to keep the dust and debris in one zone of your home and not airborne or tracked elsewhere.
2. Minimize dust. Although your remodeler can’t eliminate the dust created from a home improvement project, paint removal methods do exist that create less dust than others, such as using water to mist areas before sanding or scraping. Contractors will also attach a HEPA filter vacuum to their power tools.
3. Scrupulous cleanup. Once the work is completed and before taking down the plastic that isolates the work area from the rest of the home, the area will be meticulously cleaned using a HEPA vacuum on all surfaces, followed by wet mopping.

Taking these steps can protect you and your family from the harmful effects of lead. To get your lead-safe certified guide to renovating right, visit: http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovaterightbrochure.pdf

Prefinished plank flooring has the finish applied at the factory prior to installation.  There’s no dust from sanding, no fumes from chemicals, and no waiting for the finish to dry. These floors are warranted to last longer than site-finished floors–typically 5 to 35 years, for residential use. This is because factory applied urethane finishes are much tougher and longer lasting than many site-applied finishes.

When the prefinished floor is installed any irregularities in the existing subfloor will show up as tiny steps between the prefinished boards.  It is imperative when installing a prefinished material that you have your contractor take the time to make sure you have a smooth subfloor on which to install your new flooring.

Unfinished wood (sand -in-place) is 100% hardwood milled from lumber that is installed and then finished in place.  Subflooring irregularities will not show as much in a floor that is installed and then finished because the flooring is sanded after installation allowing for any irregularities to be smoothed during the sanding process.  After the wood is sanded, it can be stained a color of your choice before the finish coat is applied.  Hardwood reacts to changes in its setting, like moisture and extreme temperatures, which cause solid wood to shrink or expand.  All solid hardwood can be sanded and refinished if needed over the years.  Solid hardwood is not recommended for installation below ground level or in bathrooms.

Parquet Floors (Parquetry) is a geometric mosaic of wood pieces used for decorative effect.  The two main uses of parquetry are as veneer patterns on furniture and block patterns for flooring.  Parquet patterns are entirely geometrical and angular squares, triangles and diamonds.  . The most popular parquet flooring pattern is herringbone.  Parquet flooring is usually installed in basements or other areas where the subflooring is inappropriate for installation of hardwood strip flooring.

Engineered Hardwood Floors is built up of layers of wood.  It consists of three to ten layers, called plies, that are glued together.  This multi-ply structure gives engineered wood superior stability, greater than solid wood, which reduces concerns associated with shrinking and expanding when temperature and humidity change.  Engineered wood can be installed below ground level making it a great choice for finished basements.

The Finishing Process

Sanding will smooth out any irregularities between boards, eliminate surface roughness such as minor scratches and prepare the wood for applications of finish.  There are at least five steps in the finish process:

• Rough Sanding
• Fine sanding
• Edging Around Walls and Corners
• Hand Sanding
• Buffing

Sanding will not always remove deep scratches or gouges.  Neither can sanding remove all deep or heavy discoloring such as pet urine or old water damage stains and can’t always even-out “cupping” the curled-edge effect of water damage.

Staining

Our recommendation is to have your flooring installer provide a sample board that is at least 36″ by 36″ on which the stain is applied.  It is much easier to view different stain colors on this sample board than it is on your new flooring.

Stain is applied and allowed to dry thoroughly before the first coat of finish is applied.  Expect the floor surface to be rough prior to buffing.

Finishes

The two most common finishes are polyurethane and waterborne finish.

Polyurethane is an oil-based finish.  It’s one of the most common surface finishes.  It provides a rich, deep, textured appearance – possibly the most robust of all the major finishing options. It is also a cost-effective solution.

Waterborne is a Swedish finish, that many experts believe is the most durable finish available.  Waterborne finish dries fast, resists yellowing, and offers a clear, light, durable alternative.  Environmentally conscious homeowners and contractors will enjoy the “greenness” of this option.  Waterborne costs a little more than the typical polyurethane.

Drying Time ranges from 12 to 24 hours for all oil polyurethane and from two to six hours for waterborne finishes.

Curing Time can range from seven days  to one month.  During this time be careful moving heavy furniture.  It’s recommended waiting at least one week prior to putting rugs down.

Dust:  When a floor is sanded, tiny dust particles are released into the air.  This cannot be prevented but a number of steps can be taken by your flooring contractor to minimize this amount of dust allowed into the air.  If someone promises you a dust-free job, be cautious.  This isn’t possible.  Most sanders have internal dust pickup fans and vacuums but none are 100% efficient.

Care & Maintenance

A big advantage to hardwood flooring is that it is very low maintenance.  Under normal conditions, it will need only periodic sponge or damp mopping.  Some homeowners choose to wax and polish their floors – especially floors that get more dirt and foot traffic.  Cleaning kits are available but once you start using wax, you’ll have to continue periodic waxing until your floors are refinished.

Wood Options

Wood floors come in a variety of species and finishes that will fit any décor.  Today’s wood floors come in more than 50 species, both domestic and exotic, spanning the spectrum of color options, hardness, and price ranges.  No matter what the look you want to achieve, there are a variety of species to meet your needs.  Oak is one of the most common species of hardwood flooring and comes in several different grades.

Grades of Oak.  The National Oak Flooring Manufacturer’s Association (NOFMA) has established guidelines by which oak flooring is graded.

Clear:  This is the highest grade.  Characteristics include tight grain, no worm holes or knots and high uniformity of color.  Some mills have combined clear grade with select grade calling it “select and better”.

Select:  Tiny worm holes may be present.  Any visible knots will be small and tight and will average no more than one every three feet.  This grade is relatively uniform in color with some slight imperfections in milling possible.

Number One Common:  Tiny worm holes may be present.  This grade will have a few more knots and some minor milling imperfections with more color variation.  Knots will be small and tight and will average no more than one every three feet.

Number Two Common:  A big difference is the contrast in color which is noticeable after the flooring is installed.  This is because the wood graining will have more natural variation and the stain will show more variation.  There are more worm holes and knots as well.

Most homes have the usual vertical windows which bring in sidelight. As a rule of thumb,
that light will penetrate into the room a distance of 2 ½ times the height of the window.  Taking a cue from commercial buildings, why not consider some alternative strategies to providing natural light such as solar tubes and light shelves

The solar tube or light tube is gaining popularity for use in residential properties. Light
enters through a dome mounted on the roof and these can be used on a flat or low pitched roof as well. The light  passes through a tube which is lined with a highly reflective material and angled lens which intensify and direct the light. The light enters the room through the lens  which is mounted on the ceiling. In today’s market there are lenses to match every décor, from simple to chic contemporary designs that incorporate glass and fabric. There are also options for diffusing the light for soft, subtle natural lighting or warmer lighting similar to an incandescent light bulb. With a daylight dimming accessory, the option of controlling the amount of light that comes into the room is as simple as flipping a switch.

Solar Tube Image - Source: Wikipedia

The light shelf is another means of reflecting  daylight and distributing the light further and more evenly into the room. The light shelf can be installed on the inside or the outside and is usually mounted horizontally. Light coming from the window is reflected off  the shelf which then bounces the light off the ceiling.

Light Shelf Image - Source: Wikipedia

The obvious benefit of these measures is less dependency on artificial light. The decreased need for electricity will in turn lower the operating costs of the home. Another consideration is that sunlight is a natural disinfectant which can reduce or lessen the production of molds, mildews and other harmful organisms.

These are just a few of the ways that natural lighting can be incorporated into the home, and of course there are many more options to this eco-friendly and rewarding home improvement.

Julie Maas, Design Consultant with Summit Design Remodeling, is an accredited LEED Green Associate. She has extensive knowledge of green issues such as daylighting, water efficiency, and indoor air quality.  To contact Julie with any questions, please call her at 703-537-0930 or email her at julie@summitdesignremodeling.com.

Travertine Tile

But picking out the right flooring option for your bathroom is more than liking a sample
you saw at the home improvement store. You’ll want to consider the entire
picture: the wall color, the bathroom fixtures, and the natural and artificial
lighting.

One of the more popular flooring choices for the bathroom is ceramic tile. Not only is it
durable, it is also easy to maintain and keep clean. It comes in a variety of
shapes, sizes and colors, and is much less slippery than traditional high-gloss
tile.

Before you decide, however, consider these interesting flooring choices – which may (or
may not) work for your bathroom.

Marble Tile

Marble has always been an elegant choice for bathroom floors. For starters, marble is extremely versatile, and it also works well on walls and countertops. Like ceramic tile,
marble is available in many shapes and sizes, so you can create an interesting
“art” focal point on the floor.

Glass Tile

Glass tile is quickly becoming a popular choice for bathroom floors. It
comes in all shapes, sizes and colors – in either high-gloss or a more matted
finish. And some tiles are made from recycled material, making them one of the
more environmentally friendly options.  

Wood

Many people do not think of wood as a viable option for a bathroom, but it can be. Hardwood floors have always been one of the most popular choices for new flooring,
and the bathroom is a great place to install them, providing you are
willing to put in a little more work into taking proper care of them. They can
easily be restored and refinished, increasing the practicality and
longevity.

Modular Carpeting

If you are looking for a soft, plush option, then this is the way to
go. These carpets are specifically designed to prevent the growth of
bacteria and mold when they become wet, and are relatively cheap to
install.

Bamboo and Cork

These flooring choices are great alternatives for “green-conscious” homeowners. When removed from their habitat, these materials are able to replenish themselves in just a few years.  Additionally both bamboo and cork are naturally resistant to bacteria, mold and
mildew.

No matter what option you decide upon, there are endless possibilities and
choices to make your bathroom have the look and feel that you’ve been looking
for.

Summit Design Remodeling is a design/build remodeling company serving all of Northern Virginia and Montgomery County, Maryland.

A number of areas in your home can allow cooled or heated air to easily escape outdoors if
you’re not careful. Our parents may have said, “Close the door! I am not
cooling the outside!” and we laughed, but let’s face it: paying to cool or heat
the air, then letting it leave the house is a huge waste of money. The best and
most cost-efficient way to stop the leaks is to first find the source. So,
where are the leaks and what do we do about them once they’re found?

Ask the Experts

The first step is to call in a professional to perform an energy assessment on your home (your local power company may even offer this inspection free of charge, so check
there first). This assessment provides information on the biggest offenders in
your home’s energy system and will suggest ways to remedy each situation.

Professionals performing the assessment will use some pretty interesting equipment –
including infrared cameras, surface thermometers, blower doors and furnace
efficiency meters. The goal is to detect the sources of energy loss in your
home, and fix them to save money on your heating and cooling bills over time.
When the professional finds the sources that are leaking, the first defense
recommended is usually added insulation.

Target the Insulation

Areas of your home where insulation is usually lacking include:

• The attic
• The door leading to the attic and the knee walls
• The ducts running through any non-insulated spaces
• Plug and light switches on exterior walls
• Ineffective windows
• Cathedral ceilings
• Floors over garages
• The basement

This list may seem overwhelming, but a professional energy assessment will help you narrow down the areas you need to target to get the greatest results.

Some insulation jobs are great for the do-it-yourselfer interested in saving money.
Explore YouTube, HGTV and the DIY channels to get some ideas of what you can
and should not do.

Additionally, be sure to take into consideration your own region and the requirements for
insulation. Each area of the country has different suggested R-values for walls
and ceilings; specifically in the the Washington DC Metro Area, suggested R-values are set at R-38 for ceilings and R-13 for wood frame walls.

Installing insulation can be one of the easier jobs for the home improvement newbie, and
the rewards are huge. An afternoon spent crawling around the rafters of your
attic can net you some big savings on your next utility bill. With a little
know-how and some help, the ambitious homeowner can tackle these insulating
jobs with success.

The Smallest Improvements Help

Even the least talented homeowner can do a few home improvements that will add up to
considerable savings over time. For instance, an often-missed area for air
leaks is around electrical outlets. Buy ready-cut foam insulating gaskets and,
with just a screwdriver, you can stop the air leak that occurs around the
outlets.

Easy-to-use spray foam is also perfect for the do-it-yourselfer who wants to tackle the air
loss around dryer vents, plumbing and other places the outdoors meets the
indoors. Follow simple instructions, and within minutes you will have a trouble
spot sealed tight. And don’t forget that simple caulking around the windows can
stop some serious leaks and save some serious money. This process is easy to
learn, and with just a few practice runs, you’ll be caulking like a pro in no
time.

Not every home insulation project has to be a huge renovation. Yes, replacing old windows and doors may be desirable at some point, but once you know where the house is
leaking air, you can start with the simplest things – and then hire a
contractor to tackle the more difficult jobs – and the results of your efforts
will save energy and pay off nicely toward your bottom line.

Protection

The main purpose of shingles is to protect the building from inclement
weather, particularly rain and snow – but they also protect your home from
pests, such as insects. Shingles are applied in a way that promotes good
drainage from the roof peaks to the ground so water doesn’t enter the building.

Ventilation

Shingles are necessary to protect the roof, but will fail to serve
their purpose if the roof does not have a good ventilation system. Without
proper ventilation, moisture and heat combine in the attic, buckle the shingles
and compromise the effectiveness of the insulation. The importance of shingles
is relevant to the overall condition of the roof and its purpose of protecting
the entire building.

Insulation

The importance of shingles extends to the building’s insulation.
Besides protecting the drywall, furniture and flooring of the building from
water damage, shingles serve as a barrier that protect the insulation of the
home, which lies just a few feet below the shingles on the roof. If the
shingles are loose, damaged or blown away by high winds, water can penetrate
the sheathing and saturate the insulation, rendering it useless to keep heat in
or out of the structure. Securely placed shingles that are in good shape are
important to the protection of all layers of the roof, as well as the attic
that lies beneath them.

Shingle Materials

Asphalt is the top choice for shingles – based on price, available
colors to match house exteriors, ease of installation and fire resistance.
Although they once were reinforced with organic material, in the past few
decades, fiberglass has become the preferred material based on its durability.
Wood shingles and shakes give buildings a rough, natural look and are typically
made from redwood, cedar or southern pine. In some areas of the country where
fire danger is high for much of the year, wood-based shingles are prohibited,
even though most types are treated with fire-resistant chemicals. Slate
shingles are impervious to fire, as are tiles made from natural stone or
terracotta.

Finally, to catch shingle problems before they escalate, have a
roofing inspector check the roof every two years. Although not the most
difficult task, replacing shingle roofs is a dangerous work and should be left
to the professionals.

Summit Design Remodeling is a design/build remodeling company serving all of Northern Virginia and Montgomery County, Maryland.

• Home Equity Loan
• Cash-Out Refinance
• Construction Remodel or Renovation Loan

For smaller projects, such as replacing a couple of windows, replacing gutters or putting in a skylight, a home equity line of credit may be ideal. For starters, this is usually the easiest and fastest approach to getting money, and once the line of credit is established, you can
withdraw the money you want when you want it. Furthermore, if you plan to pay back
the principle in a short period of time, a line of credit could cost you less in interest than other financing options.

With a cash-out refinance loan, you refinance your existing mortgage and include additional funds for your remodeling project. The bank rolls your current mortgage into the new loan and then gives you the balance of the loan in cash. So for example, if you have a $150,000 mortgage but do a cash-out refinance for $200,000, you’d receive $50,000 for your remodeling project.

One major drawback to this loan setup is that you are paying interest on the total amount immediately ($200,000 in the scenario above). This means that you could be paying mortgage and interest on the full amount before the remodeling project is complete. Another drawback is that you are locked into that amount – so if your project ends up costing more, you can’t get more money.

The construction remodel or renovation loan is designed for large remodeling projects – additions, kitchens and finishing the basement.  This financing option is treated like a construction loan. At settlement, the bank pays off your current mortgage and, in addition, sets up a “draw” schedule for paying the remodeler for your home improvements.

The biggest advantage to the construction remodel loan is the draw schedule: you are only paying interest on the money that has been paid toward the project – not the total amount. Also, this loan takes into consideration the future value of the property – after the home is renovated.  This may allow you to tap into a larger pool of money to finance the project,
not just the equity you currently have in the home.

No matter which financing option you are leaning toward, make sure you consult with your financial advisor to determine the option that is best for you. Each option has advantages and drawbacks, so it is important to weigh each option carefully.

When you start to organize your garage, you should keep
in mind that this activity means designating a place for everything while
keeping your goods available for everyday use. The following are five steps to
help convert your garage from clutter to clean.

#1 – Sort your items.

To begin, sort and categorize all the items in your
garage. The easiest way to do this is to completely empty your garage so you
can see everything you have. Separate the tools from the sporting equipment,
and the garden supplies from the household goods, and you will quickly realize
how much stuff you have. Only then will you be able to determine the best ways
to organize and store everything.

Misplaced items in your garage should be returned to
their proper place. Also take note of the things that don’t belong in the
garage – and find a new home for them (by relocating them to the basement or
attic). For the items you no longer want or need, you can recycle them, donate
them or set them aside to sell at the next community yard sale.

#2 – Separate seasonal items and equipment.

To keep lawn maintenance tools accessible yet out of the
way, install a special rack on which to hang them. Near the beginning of every
season, rotate out the equipment that you’ll no longer need and bring in the
tools you will need. For instance, if winter is coming, it is good to have snow
tools like snow blowers, ice scrapers and snow shovels handy (and the fun toys
like skis, snowboards and sleds close, too). The basic principle is to store
the items that you use on a regular basis in a way that makes them accessible
every time you need them – without creating clutter.

#3 – Add shelving units and cabinets.

When organizing your garage, consider adding additional
storage space to help keep the garage tidy. Shelves and cabinets can be mounted
on the walls. Also, think vertically: shelves can be mounted above where the
hood of your car gets parked to store those less-used items such as camping
equipment, Christmas decorations or partially used cans of paint.

#4 – Create a workshop.

If you regularly use your garage as a workshop, why not
dedicate an area just for this purpose? Install (or build) a workbench or table,
hang a pegboard for tools and keep a sturdy toolbox easily accessible.

#5 – Relocate trash and recycling bins near the garage.

To easily dispose of unwanted items from your garage,
relocate the trash and recycling bins to near your garage entrance. This way
you won’t be tempted to keep certain items simply because the trash bins are
too far away.

When organizing your garage, keep in mind that there are
many pre-fabricated storage options available at home improvement stores.
However, if you want your space customized, hire a handyman to custom-build
storage to your specific needs. Although it might be an investment, the
long-term benefits of having a fully-functioning garage will be well worth it.